Sunday, August 31, 2025

Stage 10: Sutri to Campagna di Roma 31 km

 

A flock of sheep take refuge from the heat under the shade of a tree.

Pilgrimages

Everyday you have a goal: complete a stage to walk to the next town. You can leave early to beat the heat or leave later and sleep in. 

Everything you have you carry with you. The more stuff you have, the heavier your load. But you realized that you do not need much to be content and happy, and THAT is liberating.

When you embark on a pilgrimage, it is very hard at the beginning-–finding your way to a new town, dealing with health challenges (like blisters), being prepared for the weather (the heat, the rain), living with creatures (like flies, mosquitos,) the grade of the journey (going uphill and going downhill), being in a new culture and acclimating to their dining schedule. But with time, your body adjusts and you understand how to manage in a new country.  Radek, who has been traveling since Canterbury said he now just gets up and walks. 

There is silence while walking. Yes, you meet people along the way but especially on the Francigena, there are long periods of quiet and solitude giving you time to pray, think, reflect. Sometimes I am so tired, I can’t think and that’s wonderful too–to be in my body and just feel. 

There is the landscape. Tuscany has beautiful vistas and rolling hills and vineyards, Lazio is flatter but also has forests and lovely byways.

 

 

Dinner with Radik and Andrea

Saturday, August 30, 2025

Stage 9: Vetralla to Sutri 31 km


Hazelnut orchard
 

Hazelnuts

    
entrance to Sutri    

view of Sutri


Etruscan Amphitheater

Necropolis



Fagioli e pasta

Radik and Filippo

Friday, August 29, 2025

Stage 8: Viterbo to Vetralla 21 km

 

Green Almonds August 27.

On my walk today, I noticed some almond shells on the ground, so I picked one up. The shell was large and hard. I could not break it with my hands (and I was not going to try with my teeth. I used a rock to break it open the large, fresh nut inside. I ate a portion of it. It was still green but he almond flavor was intense and strong–nothing like it ever. For a moment it numbed by tongue. I wondered if green almonds are supposed to do that. Green almonds just exist–the better question: am I supposed to eat green almonds.