El que se creyo grande o se creyo chico

 February 24, 2009

• Post office
• Sketching
• 12:15 pm, leave Copan Ruinas
• 12:30 Guatemala border
• 7:00 pm arrive la Antigua Guatemala.

February 25, 2009

• Convento de recolecta
• Cemetary
• Catedral
• Iglesia de la Merced
• Mercado
• La Esquidilla
• Inguat
• Movie: el gusto de otros

 

El que se creyo grande o se creyo chico

El que fue pobre o fue rico.

Poder el destino contiendes desiguales.

El cemeterio a todos nos cobija,

Por iguales duermen….

Por que iguales somos…

Convertido en ceniza….

--Roso Ramon Mazariegos

 

El guatelmalteco …

No toma: chupa

No molesta: friega y chinga

No es adinerado: es pistudo.

No es bonito: es chulo.

No es entormetido: es shute

No conversa: platica.

No se averguenza: se chivea

No es cualquier cosa: es chapin.

--T-shirt

 

No amamos nuestra tierra por grande or ponderosa. Por debil or pequeña, por sus nieves y noches blancas or su diluvio solar. La amamos, simplemente, porque es la nuestra.

--Luis Cardoza y Aragon.

 

February 26, 2009

• Iglesia San Francisco
• Catedral
• Breakfast
• Museo
• Capuchinas
• Museo de Artesania

 

Venta de nueces

Un chico me vendia nueces. 80Q por una libra, 40Q por media. Me dio por probar los: marañon,habas, mani, endulzados.

--sabes pero no tengo habmbre.

--andale comprame para darle de comer a mi familia.

--pero como los pesas? No tienes vascular.

--es que las bolsitas ya estan medidas para el peso. Y Dios nos esta viendo. Asi si le quito, Dios sabra.

Me conmovio su respuesta de honestidad que le compre.

 

Perhaps La Antigua can lull you into security, but I find the Guatemalans among the nicest, politest people. They are simply good-natured to all the annoying questions that tourist make. And Guatemala has among the most inexpesive cities. But going to volcano Pacaya or to Cerro de la Cruz instill fear (mostly from reading the guides and talking to locals).

 

Journal writing in public

This writing in my journal creates an insularity in the public, as my attention is interiorly directed. I wonder if it is so good and healthy—this self-reflection in public, as it indicates a “self-absorption” or interior dialog not to be interrupted. I wonder if just closing the book will open me up to my surroundings and meeting others, like Antonio. It could also be that I am expended by the end of the day.

 

While in SE Asia, I had wonderful, tasty and cheap food, especially in Thailand where you could get freshly prepared food from street vendors for less than $2.00. When I got back to San Francisco, I found the food I ate bland and unenjoyeable. I consciously didn´t eat any Thai food. And it is understandable. Often you cannot get the same ingredients you can in the home country and when you do they often are not the same or as fresh. For example, the Thais have 3 different types of ginger.

 

Yesterday I had pupusas at ¨pupusera de Mary¨in Copan: chicharron, ayote (it is a type of vegetable), frijoles, and lorroco. They were all so tasty (for $.75 each). I normally do not eat chicharron but it was divine. And the lorroco was in a farmers´cheese. The lorroco was fresh and crunchy. I order lorroco when I eat pupusas in San Francisco, but they are not like this. In SF, they are wilted and overcooked, probably the way they are preserved to arrive in the US. How can I order lorroco pupusas again? Traveling can ruin your taste for ethnic food...

 

 

Apparently there is an issue with calling La Antigua Guatemala simply Antigua. Besides the confusion it might cause with the Carribean island, this shorthand for the former capital of Guatemala is disrepectful. One of the writers in a local magazine compared it with calling New York or New Zealand, simply New. It is just that humans tend to abbreviate words and names....

 

La Antigua is a colonial city (another colonial city?) in a valley at the foot of three volcanoes (one of which is still active). The temperature is no longer hot (ever since Honduras). It is mild during the day and cool in the evenings. Beautiful clouds pass by. The indigenous influence is heavy here as the Mayas make up a great percentage of the population and preserve their culture and language in close villages. A gentleman who just shined my shoes is from Chichicastenango. I have never seen someone take such joy in shining my shoes. His name is Jose and he has been shining shoes for 20 years!

 

Today I inadvertently came upon the village market. Such beautiful wares, especially the textiles. Against my better judgment I ended up buying a t-shirt, 2 scarves, a key holder, and a letter opener (all for $Q 100 or $US12.50) I realize that I am not a very good negotiator. A good negotiator needs to 1. propose a price and 2. learn to walk away. Now do I really need this stuff?

 

Today is Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent. The priest, padre Francisco, in the La Merced was dynamic and funny. He has charisma to be a priest. He said Christians should look forward to Lent. Put on a happy face when fasting. Quietly give alms to the poor. And pray in private. But the season should be lived in joy as it is an opportunity for conversion to be more like Jesus. Conversion significa con la version de Jesus, no la mia. It is an opportunity to be joyful, love, be generous, pray. What a wonderful way to begin the season

 

Part of traveling is going on adventures: stretching yourself, going to places where you are uncomfortable, learning to navigate in unknown territories.

 

La Antigua Guatemala

La Antigua is a beautiful charming city, and the Antigueños are amazingly polite, patient and personable. So it is difficult to believe the stories I have heard about armed robberies and murder. One of the moms from Flynn had here brother killed in a gruesome act in Guatemala and the Lonely Planet guidebook gives out warnings, so it pays to be cautious. But underneath this tranquility I was feeling an uneasy feeling of fear--not so much in the area but in me. And this was bothering me. How could a wonderful people and a place like La Antigua be a place of terrorism. My guidebook says in no uncertain terms that there are places that should not be visited without the tourist police: the cemetery, volcanoes, and Cerro de la Cruz. So this morning, as I was walking the city I saw a group of people up on Cerro de la Cruz. I determined to visit in the afternoon when the sun was no so hot.

 

I went to the hostel to leave my valuables and asked for directions from my hostel host.

¨You are going alone?¨

Yes.

¨You know the Turi-poli go at 3:00 everyday. You should go with them. What time is it?¨

3:40 pm.  I think I can catch up to them.

¨Yes, that is good.¨

 

So I go up the hill (3 kilometers) with some fear and apprehension of stalkers and muggers. I kept my eyes on the road and walked at a good clip despite the uphill grade. I go to Cerro de la Cruz in about 30 minutes and the Tourist Police were there with some ten individuals. There is a difference between foolishness and bravery, between taking on a challenge and being stupid, between taking calculated risks and putting your life in danger with full knowledge of dangers. I just couldn´t be terrorized into staying solely on the streets of La Antigua so I had to go up even if it was foolhardy.

 

Panajachel & Lago Atitlan

Yesterday I took a day trip to Panajachel. While the Lake was amazing, getting there was a bit of an ordeal. I got up early (5:30 am) to catch the colectivo (van) at 6:30. The bus was about 40 minutes late and we didn't leave La Antigua until 7:30. The road is a winding road up and down the mountains and as I am prone to motion sickness, it was not a comfortable ride.

 

We got to Pana around 10:00 and found a public ferry that took me to San Pedro La Laguna. I only had a few hours here as I had to be back at Pana for my ride back at 4:00. San Pedro is a weird place. A great part of it is for the Mayans who live here, a majority of whom are not Catholic, but evangelical as evidenced by the large Baptist church on the brow of the hill and signs all over that said, "Only Jesus saves." The other part of the town is dedicated to catering to a young, hip foreign crowd. What seemed disturbing to me is the little overlap there seemed be be between the two worlds. On one hand were Mayans selling tamales and natural orange juice. On the other were restaurants selling falafels and vegetarian options. Regardless the town is beautiful as the people there still farm around the lake. I spent the afternoon watching women come down to the lake to wash clothes and lay them out to dry. The children also helped out, then they bathed and washed themselves in the lake. Probably a good idea while the sun was out as it gets cold in the evening.

 

It was a long trip back to La Antigua. Our driver was late by 40 minutes.

?Tuviste tiempo para descansar? I asked.

--No. He estado despierto desde las 3:00 the la manana. Y todavia voy al aeropuerto hoy por la noche.

--Voy a encomendarte a Dios.

The trip took about three long hours on bumpy and windy mountainous roads. Some of the scenery was amazing, but it was hard to enjoy when you are making sure you do not get nauseous. I felt badly for the driver. But it was a cheap shuttle, $10 roundtrip.  I am taking this same company on Monday, when I leave for Tikal....

 

February 27, 2009

• Pick up van
• 10:00 am Panajachel
• 11:00 am San Pedro La Laguna
• Lunch
• 2:30 boat
• 3:00 pm Panajachel
• 7:20 pm arrive La Antigua
• Dinner

 

 

 

Chichicastenango

I signed up to go to Chichicastenango on Market day. It was a great call.  The shuttle driver was great and the people on board were very warm. We also took paved roads and went at a leisurely pace by stopping for coffee and bathroom breaks. What a difference paying for $6.00 more, for a grand total of $!6.00.

 

Chichicastenago is fascinating. The Quiche Mayan culture still thrives there. It is hopeful to be in a place where the indigenous people run everything. Some things are meant for tourists but a great much of the town serves the needs of the quiche Maya. It is not perfect. There is poverty and the neglect of government services which should be provided, but being in a place where the indigenous culture thrives is invigorating.

 

I went through the market to get to the church of Santo Tomas. The Mayan influence evident in the temple. Though the church has the structure, saints and pews of Latin American Catholic churches, the feeling is otherworldly. There is the burning of wood and offerings outside the church on the steps. And there are stalls in front of the church where candles, incense, smudge sticks, etc are sold. Men swing tin cans with burning incense outside the doors of the church, as a speaker voiced Lenten inspirational words. No photography is allowed in the temple. Inside the church is dark and is illuminated down the aisle with candles. Along the sides and the front of the church are wooden saints dressed in fabric clothing. There was a crucifix and pews in the first half of the church. In the remaining portion of the church, the floor was covered in pine needles on which the faithful knelt to put their petitions. Every several feet or so there is a 3 x 3 foot metal square on which candles are lit. the candlelit light gave the place a mystical feel. The prayers lit out candles (some 20 or so) of increasing lengths before the altar as they knelt and put their petition in prayers. They also brought offerings like flowers and live chickens to complete their petition.

 

I had a chance to go to the cemetery as well, against the advice of my Lonely Planet book (armed robberies, even when in groups). The tombs are brightly painted. There were a few families who were conducting ceremonies. One family was grieving and wailing their beloved; it was heart-rending to hear.

 

The Quiche Mayans who live here provide a market for themselves and for the tourists who arrive. It is affirming to see a community of indigenous peoples providing for themselves and the larger community. It doesn´t take away the poverty witnessed and the neglect of government agencies to serve this community. But seeing their community live and thrive is wonderful. I saw a man entertain a group of men and boys for 30 minutes with his gifted speech, his magic tricks, his demonstration of catching a snake, his ribald jokes, and his selling of epazote tincture. The men and boys enjoyed his ability to make the crowd laugh.

 

February 28, 2009

• Market
• Parque central
• Hotel
• Bank
• Aecid
• Park
• Hostal
• Merced for Mass
• Dinner

 

How to respond

I saw a man pull out of the garbage container someone’s remaining coffee drink. He swirled it around and then poured it into his mouth. I was not sure what to think or feel: disgusted, pity, compassion, mental illness, solidarity. He said something to me and walked to another garbage receptacle and pulled out someone’s food container, sat down and proceeded to eat. Lord let me respond to him with love and compassion.

 

Ode to street food:

One of the great things about traveling is eating street food which in other countries can be cheap and delicious. Clues: 1. Look to see where people are flocking to 2. Determine if the food is made to order. 3. Is it relatively clean, though this is probably not as important as the first two.

Tonight I sample a number of dishes: chicharron pupusas with cabbage curtido and avocado (OK), carne asada with cabbage curtido between two tortillas (like a sandwich) you got a third tortilla at the bottom for cleaning up what you didn´t eat (VERY good). Dobladas: small tortilla masa with chicharron inside and fried up. Served with cabbage curtido (OK). Churros: I usually don´t eat churros, but as they were made there and then I tried a bag. They were sugary but the dough on the inside was slightly undercooked giving the inside a vanilla custard texture (Superb)

 

The local option or the tourist option

When traveling, one is confronted with those options. The local way usually means cheaper, longer time, getting information from locals and hanging out with them. The tourist way usually means more expensive, quicker time, getting information from agency or guidebook or fellow travelers, and hanging out with tourists. Each has its advantage and disadvantage

Today I took the same travel agency I took to Lake Atitlan, when I did not have a good experience. It was just more convenient to pay $30 to get from La Antigua to Flores (Tikal) and not have to worry about getting a bus to Guatemala and then another one to Flores. It turned out not too badly. The shuttle had to pick up some 13 people between 4:45 and 5:15 am, an impossible task even in the small area of La Antigua. The last clients were upset because the shuttle was 45 minutes late--the driver told the customers to call the company to complain. They decided to take a taxi. We then got caught in Monday morning traffic; so a trip that should have taken 1 hour took 3. The passengers that had early morning flights probably had to reschedule. I feel for the drivers who must pack in as many passengers into the shuttle as possible (the shuttle from La Antigua to the airport is $5.00--try finding that in the US or any other country). And then there is the rucksack brigade (of which I am one) who tries to get as much for the dollar as possible.

 

The driver got us to Fuentes del Norte bus station and three of us rucksackers boarded a bus (directo) to Flores. It was the economical one (it cost $15.00)riding with all the Guatemalans who get oof between Guatemala City and Flores, an 8 hour ride. The bus had no air-conditioning (I really don't want it) and no bathroom (inconvenient). The bus did stop about 1:00 for a  lunch and bathroom break. Still the experience of having people wave a bus down, pass other not so slow vehicles, have vendors sell their food at large towns, and have the bus driver stop at all places along the the beautiful green landscape of northern Guatemala road is part of the experience.

I take another "tourist" shuttle to Palenque, Mexico on Wednesday.

 

March 3, 2009

• 5:00 am leave Flores
• 6:45 am arrive Tikal
• Plaza mayor
• Templo III
• Templo IV (great view)
• Mundo Perdido
• Siete Templos
• Templo V (awe inspiring, vertigo producing)
• Michele from France
• Templo VI
• Sehder
• Templo IV
• 4:40 Van
• 7:15 pm arrive Flores
• Dinner

 

Tikal

What an awesome place Tikal is. It is set in the jungle; when viewed from Temple IV, it is like looking over an ocean of trees—very peaceful, tranquil and a cool breeze over the tops of the trees.

Michele the engineer said that the Mayans did no build this to commune with Nature but to subdue it. As someone who has lived in the jungle—the jungle, the snakes, the heat, the humidity, the mosquitoes—all become your enemies. What humans want is to bring Nature under control. And building Tikal was one way the Mayans dominated Nature.

I said it was a way of communing with Nature, to which Michele disagreed. Perhaps I was unclear in my thinking and articulating. But I saw Tikal as a ceremonial place to seek God’s favor, for sufficient rain, for a good crop, for success in battle. Perhaps that has been man’s struggle to dominate & subdue, not to commune with Nature. And yet we are part of Nature. We cannot deny that we are dependent on Nature.

 

March 4, 2009

• 5:30 am leave Flores
• 8:45 am arrive Bethel, Guatemala
• 9:00 am arrive Corozal, Mexico
• 10:00 am leave Corozal
• Arrive Palenque
• Hostal Yaxkin
• Immigration
• Bank
• Plaza de Artesania
• Internet
• Dinner