Day 1
We started our trip rather tenuously as
once we boarded our plane wecouldn’t leave the gate as the plane’s oil light
was on. (you’d think someone would check before putting the plane at the
gate?). After deplaning, waiting for status and fearing we’d loose our
connection, we talked to a flight attendant who kindly rerouted us to Houston
so we had one less plane to take.
We landed in the historic center of
town, exploring the colonial architecture
and narrow streets. It was a good way to orient ourselves to our environs.
After walking through the historic center we climbed the towers of the La Basilica del Voto National--a gothic structure on one end of old town. We climbed its towers to view sweeping views of the city.
After visiting the guilded baroque Jesuit church, we toured El Museo de la Ciudad, a former hospital, which portrayed what life was like for Quiteños from the XVI to the XIX centuries. Fascinating.
Possibly our best dinner was that evening in a terrace on Rondalla Street. Robert had a wonderful roasted chicken; and their condiments of onions and ají was divine.
After walking through the historic center we climbed the towers of the La Basilica del Voto National--a gothic structure on one end of old town. We climbed its towers to view sweeping views of the city.
After visiting the guilded baroque Jesuit church, we toured El Museo de la Ciudad, a former hospital, which portrayed what life was like for Quiteños from the XVI to the XIX centuries. Fascinating.
Possibly our best dinner was that evening in a terrace on Rondalla Street. Robert had a wonderful roasted chicken; and their condiments of onions and ají was divine.
Day 2
As we were in Ecuador, we decided to visit the equator to do cheesy things like straddle the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. The better pictures where that of doing the tree pose before the city church. We were proud to take public transportation ($.25 for the trolley for a 1 hour ride to the bus terminal and $.40 for the 1.5 hour bus ride to Mitad del Mundo, a dusty town. It was a bit disappointing but there were lots of restrooms where we didn't have to pay and a nice shady place for ice cream.
Next door was a more interesting place: museum of the Sun Inti-ñan. we were shown indigenous artifacts of the guaraní; like a shrunken heads (yuck). More fascinating were the experiments demonstrated that are only possible on the equator: balancing an egg on a nail, trying to walk in a straight line along the equator with arms extended and eyes closed (you can't), and the fact that water pours down the drain clockwise south of the equator but counterclockwise north of the equator. I am told this is smoke and mirrors.
As we were in Ecuador, we decided to visit the equator to do cheesy things like straddle the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. The better pictures where that of doing the tree pose before the city church. We were proud to take public transportation ($.25 for the trolley for a 1 hour ride to the bus terminal and $.40 for the 1.5 hour bus ride to Mitad del Mundo, a dusty town. It was a bit disappointing but there were lots of restrooms where we didn't have to pay and a nice shady place for ice cream.
Next door was a more interesting place: museum of the Sun Inti-ñan. we were shown indigenous artifacts of the guaraní; like a shrunken heads (yuck). More fascinating were the experiments demonstrated that are only possible on the equator: balancing an egg on a nail, trying to walk in a straight line along the equator with arms extended and eyes closed (you can't), and the fact that water pours down the drain clockwise south of the equator but counterclockwise north of the equator. I am told this is smoke and mirrors.
Day 3
We arrived in Mindo about a 2 hour ride
from Quito. We spent the day in the cloud forest: nature, hiking and a small
town-vibe, like Parlier but nicer.
A hand-powered cable car takes
individuals across a river basin to a trail head of some six waterfalls. When
confronting a challenge to get closer to a waterfall, I'd ask, "what would
Francis do?" And when this middle aged 51 year old traipsed across rocks too
wet and too slippery for his own good trying to channel his god son, a little
slip into the water brought me humility.
Day 4
Most of today was spent traveling on
the bus. 2+ hours from Mindo to Quito and then 2.5 hours to Otavalo. So I was
selective in not eating too much or drinking water, as I didn't know when we'd
stop to go to the rest room.
Mindo has paradise weather. Since there were no fans in the room I guessed it is never too hot and chilly cool mornings pass with a light sweater. Alex, who owns the Mindo Real guest house, a complex of beautiful cabins near the Mindo river, was very hospitable.
Before we left Mindo we visited a butterfly farm run by a Californian. It was peaceful and delightful way to begin our travels.
Ecuadorians are among the nicest, most polite and soft spoken Latin Americans. So it was interesting today to see my first altercation between them. A family tried to get on the bus without paying. The ticket collector told them to get off. The woman was angry, "Ya, no grites!" As the bus pulled over to let the family off while she begged for $1.50 from the other passengers. Drama.
Otavalo is a midsized city with a largely Kichwa population. The women are bronzed colored and were embroidered blouses and black shawls and wear head wrap on their head. The men wear blue ponchos and white pants with felt hats, and wear their straight black hair long in a tail. Handsome.
Mindo has paradise weather. Since there were no fans in the room I guessed it is never too hot and chilly cool mornings pass with a light sweater. Alex, who owns the Mindo Real guest house, a complex of beautiful cabins near the Mindo river, was very hospitable.
Before we left Mindo we visited a butterfly farm run by a Californian. It was peaceful and delightful way to begin our travels.
Ecuadorians are among the nicest, most polite and soft spoken Latin Americans. So it was interesting today to see my first altercation between them. A family tried to get on the bus without paying. The ticket collector told them to get off. The woman was angry, "Ya, no grites!" As the bus pulled over to let the family off while she begged for $1.50 from the other passengers. Drama.
Otavalo is a midsized city with a largely Kichwa population. The women are bronzed colored and were embroidered blouses and black shawls and wear head wrap on their head. The men wear blue ponchos and white pants with felt hats, and wear their straight black hair long in a tail. Handsome.
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Day 5
Today I woke up dehydrated, with a low grade fever and a stomach ache, which kept me in for a good chunk of the day. After walking about the animal market where livestock is sold in the open market, I went back to the hotel to nap. After some soup and more napping I felt good enough to go to the market to try to haggle some purchases.
Today I woke up dehydrated, with a low grade fever and a stomach ache, which kept me in for a good chunk of the day. After walking about the animal market where livestock is sold in the open market, I went back to the hotel to nap. After some soup and more napping I felt good enough to go to the market to try to haggle some purchases.
Day 6
When we got back to Quito in a nicer but not as lively part of town. We went to Parque la Carolina and people watched. Kite flying, bike riding, guys rollerblading in skateboard park and first gay couple--both boys looked pretty and one had this white face cream on.
When we got back to Quito in a nicer but not as lively part of town. We went to Parque la Carolina and people watched. Kite flying, bike riding, guys rollerblading in skateboard park and first gay couple--both boys looked pretty and one had this white face cream on.
Day 7
Sometimes you make the best plans and you have to make the best of it. We heard la Capilla del Hombre by Guayasimin was a good museum to see so we trekked up a variety of wealthy neighborhoods (think barbed wire and security doors) and more modest ones uphill for some 3 miles taking in exhaust, dodging dog poop, walking around construction zones, in the sun and shade to the museum only to find it was closed on Mondays. So headed back to Parque la Carolina to the botanical garden and had a lovely time.
Sometimes you make the best plans and you have to make the best of it. We heard la Capilla del Hombre by Guayasimin was a good museum to see so we trekked up a variety of wealthy neighborhoods (think barbed wire and security doors) and more modest ones uphill for some 3 miles taking in exhaust, dodging dog poop, walking around construction zones, in the sun and shade to the museum only to find it was closed on Mondays. So headed back to Parque la Carolina to the botanical garden and had a lovely time.
Day 8
Last day was spent going to the
teleferiQo, a 2.5 km suspended sky train that takes you to a summit 4100+
meters above sea level. Snow capped Cotopaxi, an extinct volcano, looks over the
city. It was windy site but provided magnificent views of the city.
Later, at the free Museo de Arte
Contemporáneo we saw a multimedia show on fútbol and on work of Eduardo Villacís, a digital
artist/painter/illustrator. Part of his showcased work was "Smoking Mirror",
a graphic novel and artifact exhibit on what would have happened had the Aztecs
gone to Europe to colonize it after Columbus "discovered" America.
The Aztecs would have named Europe "Amexico" and would have converted
the Europeans the to Aztec religions.
Interesting. I wonder what it would be like to claim "indigenous
privilege".
Before we went shopping at the craft market, we ate our first almuerzo del dia on this trip. They are lunch specials that Ecuadorians have for $3 or less. They include a first course, main course, drink and dessert. Paloma picked ours: $2.50. We had fish & rice, oj, and an apple streusel; they charged is $4.50 for all three of us as they ran out of the first course. It was great to eat with the locals. Robert didn't care for it; but it sure beat paying $40+ at places where they charged you taxes and tip.
Before we went shopping at the craft market, we ate our first almuerzo del dia on this trip. They are lunch specials that Ecuadorians have for $3 or less. They include a first course, main course, drink and dessert. Paloma picked ours: $2.50. We had fish & rice, oj, and an apple streusel; they charged is $4.50 for all three of us as they ran out of the first course. It was great to eat with the locals. Robert didn't care for it; but it sure beat paying $40+ at places where they charged you taxes and tip.
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