Touring with a native.

Women dressed in hanboks, traditional Korean dress.

There is nothing like being with a native when visiting a country.

Lori asked me to call up her sister, Yoon Jeong (Helena) who lives in Seoul while I was visiting. After attending Mass at the Cathedral I met up with her at Gwanghamum metro station. Before we went to the palace, we went to Changbok, a neighborhood with traditional Korean homes. Unfortunately, we could see them only from the outside. They had upsloping wooden roofs and small wooden frame windows with wonderful wooden doors. We did get to stop in a gallery that was formerly a home so we could imagine what the homes are like. The rooms surround a small could yard. The floors are made of wood and soji sliding doors separate the rooms.

Myeong-dong Cathedral

Sejong the Great (1397-1450) is remembered for the creation of Hangul (Korean language), scientific advancements and expanding Korean territory.

We then went to Cheongdaek palace, which Helena says is a small but the most elegant palace. The place is a Unesco site and is beautifully laid out. The large structures are painted in bright blue, red, pink, green and yellow. While the day was cloudy, it was still hot and muggy to be outdoors. We took breaks to rest in shade and drank lots of water. The palace is connected to a secret garden which comprises 60% of the grounds. It was where the royal family retreated for relaxation and recreation. It was naturally wooded among which the Korean kings build ponds, pavilions and structures. While it was a "small" palace, we needed refreshment afterwards especially from the heat.

After a small break, we headed to Namdaemun Market, a market of cheap, inexpensive materials and chotchkees. I was told many Asians liked to come to buy the inexpensive clothes.

We then headed for an artsy bohemian part of town for ogyabsal, a 5 layer fat pork that is barbecued over hot coals. Yes it was very greasy but very delicious. I will have to have it again some time.

But the best part of this was connecting with Helena as a person with aspirations, accomplishments and dreams. This despite the fact that I do not speak Korean and that Helena doesn't have the facility with English that she has with Korean. I realize how language development is so crucial to communicating feelings and ideas, and how much we take for granted when we have a developed language base.

View from the dining room on Bukchon.

At Cheongdaek Palace

Palvilion at Cheongdaek Palace where the King would esconce with his beloved.

Beautiful animal forms on the roofs meant to ward away evil spirits

Koreans invented ondol heating, underfloor heating which uses direct heat from burning wood to heat the underside of a masonry floor. This is the furnace for ondol heating at Cheongdaek Palace.

At Cheongdeok Palace with Helena, Yoon Jeong

Helena and I stopped for a snack after visiting Cheongdeok Palace. In the men's bathroom, there were small round brownies over the urinal. Hmmm. Why would there be brownies in the restroom?

I mentioned it to Helena. She clarified that the "brownies" were the discarded expresso grounds. Duh. Makes sense.

Namdaemun Market

Ginseng for sale.

Ogyeopsal is "five layer fat pork" But after it is barbequed and cut it shrinks into crunchy, tasty bits of pork. Yum-yum.

2.8.2010

7:30 Wake

8:15 Breakfast

9:00 Prep

10-5:30 Teach

7:00 Dinner

Summer breeze.

I was in Lombardia Café on Monday morning with my open sketchbook when a young woman with a disarming smile and eyes greeted me.

“Anyeo haseo”

“Anyeo haseo,” I responded.

“You are an artist.”

“Yes, I illustrate.”

“Your work should be in a gallery.”

I smiled. “Oh no, this art is not fit for viewing.”

“But I do illustrate, or used to illustrate, children’s books”

“Oh a children’s book illustrator. I would like to talk to you.”

“I am here at NIIED. When do you want to meet?”

“I don’t know where NIIED is.”

“I have breakfast everyday from 8:00-9:00 if you want to meet then.”

We exchanged email.

She stopped momentarily and clarified, “You know, this is not a hook up. I am not in love with you.”

I smiled, “Oh I am not either.” I was thinking that I don’t play on her team. Later told her I was gay and we laughed.

On Wednesday, she showed me her portfolio. It was lovely. The subject matter was very broad: from somber and dark to whimsical and light. She employed a variety of media: watercolor, acrylic, gouache, pastel, pen & ink, scratchboard, collage…. I counseled her to choose one media (pastel, she said). I should have told her to narrow her subject matter.

I found the encounter inspirational and moving. It inspired me to see the time and effort she put into her art. But her personal life is complicated: She lives with her French boyfriend, in what sounds like a relationship not sanctioned by her family or Korean society. The boyfriend, who is a photographer, has tried mold her and has not been very supportive of her work. I encouraged her to be brave and find ways of exploring her art by going to school. But resources are a challenge. She must work to support herself and her hours do not allow for evening or Saturday classes. She seemed like a little bird wanting to fly but caught in a cage of societal and cultural expectations, complicated by an unconventional, and complex relationship. So sweet she is. I hope she finds a way to share her art.

© Hector Lee, 2010