I will miss L. R. Flynn

Yesterday I went to Flynn to get the last of my belongings. I tried to get there early. As I parked at school I saw a parent who berated me for leaving: “I’m mad at you. I can’t believe you’re leaving! Why’d you have to leave? I’m mad at you.”

“Sonya, I told you I was thinking of looking for anther position.”

“No you didn’t. If you had told me that, I would have told you to stay. I’m mad at you. Why’d you have to leave?”

“I’m sorry.”

“They gave your position to someone else. You’re suppose to leave after a sabbatical. Not now when you have come back. I’m mad at you. Why’d you have to leave?”

“Maybe we can go out and get a bite to eat after school settles in.”

“When?”

It was hard to be there as I met up with friends and colleagues and said good bye. It felt as I was abandoning them. It is not that I can’t continue my relationships with colleagues but it will not be the same as without the day to day contact. Now effort and planning will be necessary to meet up with people.

I later arrived at Marshall where I was welcomed by staff but I am the new kid on the block and will have to get to know a new staff, students and families. Today one of the male teachers mentioned that they have guayabera Fridays at Marshall and that I will have to get one. It was a nice gesture to be a part of the Marshall culture but it also made me wistful for Flynn and the culture I know there.

Going back in time to get home

I left Seoul this afternoon at 2:00 and arrived in San Francisco 12 noon the same day. I wonder if I can continue this to get younger?

I am presently very jetlagged but I plan to slog it through and get on San Francisco time by as soon as I can. I find it much easier to adjust to Asian time when I go from the West coast to there and find it more difficult to adjust to Westcoast time coming from Asia.

Last day of Korea Summer Writers Camp

6.8.2010

7:00 Wake

7:30 Prep

8:30 Breakfast

9:30- Teach

2:30 Reader’s Theatre Performance

4:30 Author’s Chair

5:30 Clean up

7:00 Gwanghamun with Helena

12:30 NIIED They had looked the doors and I wasn’t sure I would be able to get in.

Today was our last day with our students at the Young Writers Camp. It seemed that just when we got going, the term is over. For our last session together, we had our Author's Chair, where the students read their published work to their peers and get feedback.

Teacher Mimi and Group L

Teacher Eun Jeung and Group L

Min Soo and his final published book, Big Pig Day

Three Scary Stories by Edward

Almost all the students read. One student dramatized his story. While his English language development is limited, he was not shy about acting out his three small stories. The children loved it. I was charmed.

Helena invited me to her home for dinner for samgaetan, a traditional chicken stew. And for dessert we had watermelon and berry ice cream. It was special to be invited into a Korean home and share a meal, conversation and laughs.

Samgaetan, (chicken stew), a traditional Korean summer food.

© Hector Lee, 2010

Hello from Seoul

Hi Hector,

Remember me from San Francisco? How have you been?

I am in Seoul these days, and I happened to see someone just like you yesterday near Namdaemun market. So, I had to send you an email JUST IN CASE!

If not, that must be your twin you never knew existed.

Anyways, hope you are well.

Heather

*************

Hi Heather:

I have been teaching in Seoul for a week so maybe you did see me. You should have said hello or it could have been my twin.

I am at the NIIED center near Marronier Park near Hyehwa station. It would be good to see you if you have time. I leave this Saturday.

I forgot you had come to Seoul. Thanks for dropping a line.

Hector

************

Funny. Small world doesn’t quite capture it.

It turned out that Heather lives near Namdaemun Market and had seen me with Helena. We made plans to see each other later in the week and catch up on life.

3.8.2010

7:30 Wake

8;00 Breakfast

9:00 Prep

10-5:30 Teach

7:00 To Insadon for bibimbap

We liked bibimbap so much, we went back another time. I thought I would be daring and get the traditional one with raw beef--but all the ingredients were cooked.

4. 8.2010

7:00 Wake

7:30 Prep

8:00 Breakfast w/ Summer

10-5:30 Teach

7:00 Dinner

5.8. 2010

6:30 Wake

7:00 Prep

7:30 Hike

8:30 Breakfast

9:30-5:30 Teach

6:00 Meet with Heather

11:00 Write Report Cards

More BBQ thinly sliced beef.

Education

Helena tells me that there is great stress on education in Korea because of the great competition to get into universities. Students are told, “no play, no sleep, no time to go out with friends.” There is a Korean saying she tells me, “Four hours of sleep, a successful student. Five hours of sleep, a poor student.” It points to the great emphasis Korean culture puts on education. Korea has limited natural resources so it pools its assets into its best resource: human capital. This has brought the country a high standard of living. But it comes with a cost: a place for those who are not so academically or scholastically inclined. It must be a difficult challenge for those with other intelligences—and to find a way to prosper with them. Like all cultural aspects of a culture, this emphasis on education has a light and dark side.

© Hector Lee, 2010

Touring with a native.

Women dressed in hanboks, traditional Korean dress.

There is nothing like being with a native when visiting a country.

Lori asked me to call up her sister, Yoon Jeong (Helena) who lives in Seoul while I was visiting. After attending Mass at the Cathedral I met up with her at Gwanghamum metro station. Before we went to the palace, we went to Changbok, a neighborhood with traditional Korean homes. Unfortunately, we could see them only from the outside. They had upsloping wooden roofs and small wooden frame windows with wonderful wooden doors. We did get to stop in a gallery that was formerly a home so we could imagine what the homes are like. The rooms surround a small could yard. The floors are made of wood and soji sliding doors separate the rooms.

Myeong-dong Cathedral

Sejong the Great (1397-1450) is remembered for the creation of Hangul (Korean language), scientific advancements and expanding Korean territory.

We then went to Cheongdaek palace, which Helena says is a small but the most elegant palace. The place is a Unesco site and is beautifully laid out. The large structures are painted in bright blue, red, pink, green and yellow. While the day was cloudy, it was still hot and muggy to be outdoors. We took breaks to rest in shade and drank lots of water. The palace is connected to a secret garden which comprises 60% of the grounds. It was where the royal family retreated for relaxation and recreation. It was naturally wooded among which the Korean kings build ponds, pavilions and structures. While it was a "small" palace, we needed refreshment afterwards especially from the heat.

After a small break, we headed to Namdaemun Market, a market of cheap, inexpensive materials and chotchkees. I was told many Asians liked to come to buy the inexpensive clothes.

We then headed for an artsy bohemian part of town for ogyabsal, a 5 layer fat pork that is barbecued over hot coals. Yes it was very greasy but very delicious. I will have to have it again some time.

But the best part of this was connecting with Helena as a person with aspirations, accomplishments and dreams. This despite the fact that I do not speak Korean and that Helena doesn't have the facility with English that she has with Korean. I realize how language development is so crucial to communicating feelings and ideas, and how much we take for granted when we have a developed language base.

View from the dining room on Bukchon.

At Cheongdaek Palace

Palvilion at Cheongdaek Palace where the King would esconce with his beloved.

Beautiful animal forms on the roofs meant to ward away evil spirits

Koreans invented ondol heating, underfloor heating which uses direct heat from burning wood to heat the underside of a masonry floor. This is the furnace for ondol heating at Cheongdaek Palace.

At Cheongdeok Palace with Helena, Yoon Jeong

Helena and I stopped for a snack after visiting Cheongdeok Palace. In the men's bathroom, there were small round brownies over the urinal. Hmmm. Why would there be brownies in the restroom?

I mentioned it to Helena. She clarified that the "brownies" were the discarded expresso grounds. Duh. Makes sense.

Namdaemun Market

Ginseng for sale.

Ogyeopsal is "five layer fat pork" But after it is barbequed and cut it shrinks into crunchy, tasty bits of pork. Yum-yum.

2.8.2010

7:30 Wake

8:15 Breakfast

9:00 Prep

10-5:30 Teach

7:00 Dinner

Summer breeze.

I was in Lombardia Café on Monday morning with my open sketchbook when a young woman with a disarming smile and eyes greeted me.

“Anyeo haseo”

“Anyeo haseo,” I responded.

“You are an artist.”

“Yes, I illustrate.”

“Your work should be in a gallery.”

I smiled. “Oh no, this art is not fit for viewing.”

“But I do illustrate, or used to illustrate, children’s books”

“Oh a children’s book illustrator. I would like to talk to you.”

“I am here at NIIED. When do you want to meet?”

“I don’t know where NIIED is.”

“I have breakfast everyday from 8:00-9:00 if you want to meet then.”

We exchanged email.

She stopped momentarily and clarified, “You know, this is not a hook up. I am not in love with you.”

I smiled, “Oh I am not either.” I was thinking that I don’t play on her team. Later told her I was gay and we laughed.

On Wednesday, she showed me her portfolio. It was lovely. The subject matter was very broad: from somber and dark to whimsical and light. She employed a variety of media: watercolor, acrylic, gouache, pastel, pen & ink, scratchboard, collage…. I counseled her to choose one media (pastel, she said). I should have told her to narrow her subject matter.

I found the encounter inspirational and moving. It inspired me to see the time and effort she put into her art. But her personal life is complicated: She lives with her French boyfriend, in what sounds like a relationship not sanctioned by her family or Korean society. The boyfriend, who is a photographer, has tried mold her and has not been very supportive of her work. I encouraged her to be brave and find ways of exploring her art by going to school. But resources are a challenge. She must work to support herself and her hours do not allow for evening or Saturday classes. She seemed like a little bird wanting to fly but caught in a cage of societal and cultural expectations, complicated by an unconventional, and complex relationship. So sweet she is. I hope she finds a way to share her art.

© Hector Lee, 2010