Casco Viejo, Ojos Viejos

 February 9, 2009—To Panama

• Breakfast
• Airport
• Arrive Panama City
• Walk Casco Viejo

 

February 10, 2009

• Templo San Jose
• Panama Canal
• Museo de la Historia
• Museo del Canal
• Walk
• Dinner

 

Casco Viejo, Ojos Viejos

When I arrived in Panama City, I stayed in the Casco Viejo (the Old Quarter). The area is under development; many of the buildings are simply empty shells. And while there is a police presence, at night, the Casco Viejo is dark and under populated making for a rather unsavory and unwelcome place, especially around the alleys. It could also be that I had arrived from Mexico, where there is often an active nightlife of people noshing at street eateries. The Casco Viejo is situated at the tip of a peninsula in the Pacific, so it has the potential to be a lovely place.

I discovered that since Panama uses the US dollar, the prices are higher than I had expected—my taxi ride from the airport to the hostel was $US 28 (not the $12-15 listed in my guidebook). But I made a more humbling discovery upon my arrival to Panama City.

While the taxi driver knew how to get to Casco Viejo, he was a bit unsure at to where my hostel was. I had a reservation at Hospedaje Casco Viejo, but he intended to drop me off at the first hostel he came upon. “Here is your place,” the taxi driver announced to me. I sat in the taxi unsure to get off.

“I don’t think this is my hostel,” I commented. “My hostel is Hospedaje Casco Viejo. This is Luna’s Castle.”

He looked a bit perplexed. And I suggested, “Let me get my guide book out to check the address.”

I turned on the vehicle light but it was too dim to read the book.

I then pulled out a small light with bright intensity. While the light provided sufficient illumination, I could not clearly read the small print. I blinked and it was the same. I have been myopic (near-sighted) since I was a teen and not in my mid-forties, I was losing my ability read at close range—anything closer than 8 inches. Ah my body, which has been a good servant for so long is beginning to fall apart. The limits I had in my youth I am acquiring. And the limits I have overcome in my youth are no longer there. Will I overcome these physical limits?

 

When I was young, I thought that the worse thing that could befall me would be to lose my hands as they are so pivotal to making art. I realize now that my eyesight would be a greater loss, as I could learn to make art with my mouth or my feet, but I cannot compensate for the loss of my sight.

 

 

There was a dearth of restaurants in Casco Viejo. Jilma, The hotel receptionist who is replacing her daughter  referred me to the Café Coca Cola, but all I found was a Chinese buffet bar. It was inexpensive but the food did not look appetizing. So I left. There seems to be a lack of night life in the area. It could be that the Panamanians don’t have money. It could be that it is not cheap. Panama is not Mexico or Thailand, where people are out at all hours of the day eating….

 

 

I had a hard time in Panama. Later I realized that though I knew the language, I had to learn the culture and more immediately how things functioned. For example, I couldn’t negotiate a good price on a taxi. I was told that a fare to la calzada or Amador (a manmade causeway) would be about $US 3.00. the first taxi driver told gave me a price of $US 7. A second taxi offered to take me for $US 15. Instead of going down, the price was going up. I decided to take public transportation. After asking several people I caught a taxi at Plaza Cinco de Mayo. It was a small bus where some 25 people got on (not kidding). The price was right. But unfortunately the bus broke down and we had to wait to catch a van to the destination. A van stopped and some 15 people got on (not kidding). The van dropped me off at the end of the causeway, but it was a mistake as it was midmorning (and hot) and the entire place was depopulated and meant for tourists.

Panama reminds me much of Cuba with the large numbers of African descendents. There are also noticeable indigenous: the Kuna. And a sizable Chinese population and mestizo population.  There is a diversity of colors in panama:
African, European, Indigenous, Asian & Mestizo.

I was not impressed with Panamanian food. The first night I ate a set menu in Casco Viejo because the food was made to order—but the fish was adequate. But most of the eating establishments have ready-made food: fried meat and stews (guisados).

The other thing I notice is that there is not the solicitation I found in Mexico. On one hand it is good not to be hawked merchandise  as I walk down the street, on the other hand I am at a disadvantage in getting cheap taxi fares. I later found out that taxi drivers solicit passengers by flashing their headlights as they pass a pedestrian. If the pedestrian wants a ride, he raises his hand and flags it down and a fare is negotiated.

 

I finally got a reasonable taxi fare ($3) to Albrook Terminal though one of the guesthouse residents said I could get one for ($1.50-2.00) I think that ist is a challenge when visiting is that you have to know thearea and the people and the culture of a place.  I can’t expect to arrive in a place and know a culture.

 

I am rethinking how I planned this trip. Three days in one city and then move on.  It is as if I am stamp-collecting as many entry and exit stamps from as many countries into my passport. Especially here in latin america, time move much more slowly. Today I went to the bus station to get a ticket for tomorrow for San Jose. Getting there took an hour. And then there was the standing in line. But once the young lady saw me it was OK. It just takes a whole day just to get somewhere. I could fly, but it is more expensive and you don’t see as much of the country.

 

When my tia Teresa traveled, she wanted to get to the boarding place as early as possible. She did not want to miss her flight or bus. And she would make sure she would not eat or drink very much as bathrooms are sometimes not available or they are in unsanitary conditions. If you have traveled you know what I mean. And heaven help you if you got sick while traveling. Let this serve as a warning.